#41 | Flôr, Porto, Portugal
Last Visit: November 2023
We are, virtually, travelling back to Porto, where even the autumn days are feeling longer and the Portuguese coastal climate just adds a certain something to any culinary experience. When researching which bars to visit, as I had already explained in my article about The Royal Cocktail Club, our introduction to cocktail culture in Porto, I expected the most exciting ones to be outside the mostly traditional, touristy bubble of the city center.
To my surprise, here is another example of a great cocktail bar, embedded in a subtle luxury hotel, where the bling does not take away from the basic craft, and where the drinks outperform the more popular bars of the city (such as Torto or Curioso, which we surely will write about too). Add to that an impressively well-rounded menu aside from drinks.
Copyright: Flor
Flor gets its name from the adjacent Rua das Flores, which is known as a, not always beloved, street for high-end retail and luxury hospitality. For those who are interested in perfume, the Claus flagship store, with a wonderful little museum about the brand, is also located on this street. Furthermore, there are the historical Jóia da Coroa café and neighboring mansions connected to the city's trade.
As such, the entire block of houses that features Flor, its corresponding restaurant Cozinha Das Flores and the hotel The Largo modernized some old artistic representations of wealth into a subdued sense of exclusivity. Past the outside terrace, guests first encounter the round ‘lobby bar’, but there are countless little corners and balconies to discover, depending on mood and occasion. I only sat down at the main bar, Flor, for two quick drinks in between shopping for soap at Claus and making my way down to the river for other cultural and shopping engagements.
Copyright: Flor
As one would expect, many locals might be a bit skeptical about such a concept, or are somewhat worried about the prices. We have already written about how easy it is to get affordable wines or coffee in Porto, so I can understand that some guests might be disappointed when all they wanted was that, instead of the more conceptual, subtle and elegant experience you will find here.
From drinks to coffee to full evening filling dinners, for every part of the journey there is an experienced manager in charge of it. Freshly baked breakfast goods are available until they run out, and I really wish that I had tried the coffee, but unfortunately I already had that planned at different spots. The menu for food and pastries changes often, a testament to the creativity of the people involved and also seasonality. They did for example add a Japanese shaved ice machine, kakigori, for one dessert.
Clichéd
| Gin
| Cod
| Coriander
| Amaranth
| Granny Smith apple
| Espelette pepper
Introduced as a take on Portugal’s famous Bacalhau (if you want to know more about Portuguese cuisine, I do recommend our fine dining article) this drink brings some flavors from the kitchen, while leaving enough room to be paired with whatever the place can offer. The descriptions above were taken from the menu and leave some room for interpretation. After asking the man behind the bar that day I was told that Bombay Sapphire was treated via Rotovap with cod, coriander, and amaranth (I assume also the pepper, though it was not mentioned specifically) and the apple is added as light juice.
Very balanced with a peppery aftertaste and great citric balance, a beautifully subtle juniper-y, salty nose. It got a little weaker with water, and that is not the fault of the high quality ice. I assume it is simply because Porto likes to drink light and because it needs to go well with food or a bottle of wine added during dinner.
Misshape
| Aguardente Lourinhã
| Marmalade
| Goat cheese
| Angostura
After asking, this was the drink described as most close to an Old Fashioned or Manhattan, and true, it was the strongest and most ‘alcoholic’ drink I had in Porto during my entire trip. Already a great and brave step by the team at Flor. To no one's surprise, it is the least ordered drink there.
Not too sweet, and a captivating presentation in a specially designed bowl by Studioneves. However, it does not add to the sensory experience and again with a little too much water it takes away a lot of the otherwise great notes in this drink over time. I do however like the use of local Brandy, instead of the typical Port wine, and again the culinary element, which reflects the high quality of the kitchen and the synergy between the different teams.
Copyright: Flor
As is often the case within this industry, changes also reflect a new season at Flor. The manager Tatiana, who, with the existing bar team of course, has designed and developed the drinks including their presentation is already on to other projects, such as her own bar called Blind Pony, which I would love to visit the next time I am in Porto. Flor, and the opportunities for fresh pastries and creative cocktails, remains at its first class location. So if you get the chance to visit Flor, please let us know if and how the cocktails have changed and also how you liked the coffee or food offerings.
Cheers
/jf
