#13 | La Mezcaleria, Hôtel 1K, Paris, France
Last Visit: Winter 2021
This time we're talking about a little hidden gem in the middle of Paris, located in the east of the city center, between the triangle of Place de la République, the Oberkampf metro station and the world-famous Little Red Door Bar, the last one being probably one of the biggest regulars on the Worlds50 list. Other, more famous names are in close proximity, just 2 side streets away e.g., Candelaria, this one has landed on that list more than once too in the past. But in the following review, you can find out why the Mezcaleria does not need to shy away from a comparison in this well-known neighborhood.
But why "hidden" in the first place? After all, it is located relatively centrally, even, in contrast to the two mentioned above, directly on one of the main boulevards, the Boulevard du Temple.
First, it seems that it is somewhat overshadowed by those very nearby bars in terms of notoriety, on the other hand, it is located in a rather medium-sized design hotel (4-stars), the Hotel 1K. The hotel itself has quite an interesting design, on the one hand also Mesoamerican inspired, but minimalist and modern. One finds a lot of details concerning this cultural theme, some plants or here and there colors, sometimes a carpet that clearly reminds you of Mexico, its culture and its southern neighbours. At the same time it has many relatively narrow corridors (as do many of these city hotels in Paris), corners and tangles, it can become difficult to find the way to your destination on your first time here.
Then the bar is hidden again within this hotel as a speakeasy bar in a quite entertaining and exciting way, behind an ominous black door with a white cross on it, actually at the end of the hotel kitchen, through which you first have to walk to find it. A speakeasy concept really in the middle of everyday hotel life, not as a pseudo-gimmick, which is actually very obvious and easy to find (as with some other modern “speakeasies”), a positive surprise.
If you step through that gloomy-mysterious door, you come into a barroom already very – more clearly and daring than the hotel itself – much designed around the Mexican theme, but still somehow coherent and just on the border of exaggeration or kitsch, with a surprising amount of space (and color). An illuminated ceiling, though not as bright as in the photo selection above, a wall of windows facing a nice little courtyard and the highlight, aside from the large ceiling cross, is definitely the bar. The entire wall behind it is covered in Mexican newspapers, little, sometimes funny details and most importantly, Mezcal everywhere, seriously.
You can't find numbers online, but I would assume at least >100 bottlings, many of which you don't see in every other bar, small batches, limited editions, brands rarely found (in Europe at least), etc.
Also amusing, the letter board right in the middle above the bar itself, with examples like:
— If you can read this, you need more Mezcal
— Choke me please (matching the theme of the menu back then)
— Sucks to be their letter board
Unsurprisingly but matching the vibe of the room RnB and hip hop with noticeable Mexican influence plays in the background, but not too loud (at least if you're there early enough).
The team and staff seem to be in a constant good mood and quite pleased with the interest of the customers and comments on the drinks and what you like about it, and they are happy to tell you more about the creations and thoughts behind it by themselves. Although there was only time for two drinks, and we got to know each other rather briefly, of course, a shot of Union Mezcal with the waiter and bartender for free was served as a farewell.
In keeping with the fresh, bright decor and details in the bar design, the menu also included a mixture of color, fun and a certain artistic progressiveness. During my visit – now they are one menu down the line – it consisted of seminude photos, both of the bar team and friends of the bar, sorted and named according to sexual fetishes or personalities and preferences, with keyword collections of the respective character traits of that particular orientation, one photograph and personality for each drink. The models were merely covered with bold, thick, colorful paint, hence the name of the menu release: Chromatic Bombastic (click for full menu).
Depending on the expression of the drink, for example, if it was about a more playful or bold personality and sexuality, 1–2 ingredients that might seem rather unconventional for upscale bars, like some Captain Morgan Spiced or Jack Daniel’s Apple Liqueur intentionally appeared in small doses.
The concept seemed so convincingly direct and fresh, and the drinks themselves knew how to pique curiosity with exciting flavor combinations, that it was almost difficult to settle on just two. However, when I saw that – as during this visit in almost every Parisian bar – a drink with Pineau des Charentes was on the menu and I could compare it directly with the one in the Danico Bar (also to be found in the Worlds50), this was already a clear choice.
Dirty Honeyyy
Dirty Honeyyy:
| Koch Espadin Mezcal
| Bourgoin Pineau des Charentes
| H. Theoria Cuir Loitain
| Tea Liqueur
| Selfmade Honey Bitters
In addition, homemade edible decoration in the form of a honeycomb, from nutty cereal-like cookie dough. A very nice aroma, the agave unusually with intense, fresh and slightly sweet grape, walnut, tea. Tasting you get fresh agave and grapes right away too, then noticeable dried fruit from the Pineau and Theoria liqueur, walnut, Earl Grey tea and gentle, not at all soggy honey at the end. A perfectly balanced drink, Mezcal is shown here from its elegant and round side, a pleasant interpretation of the spirit.
Swinger's Delight:
| Koch Espadin Mezcal
| Angostura White Reserve
| Ruby Port
| Chilli Tincture
| Agave Syrup
Simply served in the Nick & Nora, with white chocolate applied artistically on the outside of the glass with a brush. Of course, you have to be careful where you hold the glass, but it is really the perfect icing on the cake as a flavor accent. For lovers of certain spice and heat, the drink is a must-have. Agave, but the rough character of Mezcal already smoothed and refreshed by silky white rum, the red port only subtle in the background, the chili quite noticeable in the finish but now completely overwhelming. But if you then taste a bit of the white chocolate while taking a ship, a new dimension is added, the chili is tamed and the experience is made whole.
Swinger's Delight
The La Mezcaleria holds a special place in my heart after my two visits and adds a lot of value to the already great Parisian bar community. Nothing critique here, a modernized, real speakeasy concept with a hidden door, always having a fun time here, good atmosphere and nice bartenders, all boxes checked, top drinks and creative-progressive menus (especially also concerning the design)? Great stuff.
If there wouldn't be so much to visit in Paris, I'd happily return here every single time during my other semi-annual visits, something only the world-famous Little Red Door and Danico can otherwise claim, as well as previously the now-closed Mabel.
Plus, it still seems like a relative insider's tip outside the city (and even in Paris itself to some extent, while talking to other bartenders back at the end of 2021), so take advantage of the opportunity when you're in Paris!
