#17 | Sherry Butt, Paris, France
Last Visit: September 2023
This time we want to report on a true Parisian gem, which I was fortunate enough to visit a second time this summer to reconfirm my first impression almost 5 years ago: Sherry Butt simply has it all.
Situated in the south of the trendy Parisian district of Le Marais, Sherry Butt is now well into its 11th year and can therefore be regarded as established in Paris, where a lot has happened in the last 4–5 years in particular. Only one of the founding members is still there, Olive, and he has continued some traditions since the beginning, such as using a different spirit category for each drink. Apart from these fun facts about the menu, what is special about Sherry Butt? Not much on the outside at first, the bar is very discreetly decorated, a small, very pretty wooden sign with the logo reveals what is hidden behind the gray, inconspicuous façade.
This impression is roughly continued in the interior, where there is no flashy decor or fancy eye-catchers, it is however anything but shabby. Down-to-earth but high-quality, with small but fine design details. I always think of a nice heritage whisky bar in Brooklyn, NYC, with a touch of Japanese flair in the details, such as lamps, etc.
The impression of a whisky bar is no coincidence, as you can already see some whisky bottles on the narrow galleries along the wall in the entrance area. It continues at the beginning of the bar with a good dozen, before you, even as a non-whisky nerd, enthusiastically turn your gaze to the back bar and immediately realize: this is anything but standard. Special cask finishes, single casks and more exotic whiskies are the order of the day here, also immortalized in the separate whisky menu, as befits such a place of malty drinking pleasure.
When you browse through the whisky menu, the impression is confirmed: on the one hand, the focus is on rarer Scotch single malts, interesting finishes and also a few independent bottlers, vintage is less present, but you don't miss it in the selection either. In addition, the real star is the selection of Japanese whiskies, rare Chichibu single casks (one of my favorite distilleries worldwide) can be found here, but also special bottlings from the larger distilleries in Japan (in Nikka's and Suntory's hands). Whisky flights and top advice are of course a matter of honor. The service is generally extremely pleasant, relaxed but still taking their craft serious, and so far I have always had the experience of hearing the most perfect English in the city's gastronomy at Sherry Butt. That can sometimes still a bit of a problem in Parisian bars outside large hotels and requires patience sometimes.
The cocktail menu couldn't be more typically Parisian in some sense, as almost everywhere in the city there are “only” 10–14 drinks, but almost (more on this below) all of them are changed every six months. As already mentioned, a new category of spirit is used for each drink, which promises great variety, as well as homemade syrups, cordials, reductions, etc. As is often the case in Paris (but not only there), the drinks in the summer season are on average very fresh and sour/highball-heavy, but Old Fashioned and Manhattan nerds like me don't mind at all. We have enough whiskies of all kinds for perfectly crafted, customized Old Fashioned & Co. When I visited, as it was very warm and high season, the ready-made soft drinks were sold out as refreshments at that moment. They spontaneously conjured up an absolute top homemade lemonade for me, nice to see such spontaneity.
Frequency:
| Calvados
| Umeshu
| Campari
| Verjus
With the acidity from the verjus, it may not officially be a Negroni on paper, but in spirit it is a perfect summer interpretation of it. A bittersweet, yet silky and light attack, followed by fresh, fruity apple and young plum, the bitterness is perfectly balanced and polished. Everything is right here to keep Negronis wonderfully exciting and enjoyable even at high temperatures.
Ronin:
| Japanese Whisky
| Madeira with Pandan
| Oloroso Sherry
| Champagne & Thé Fumé
| Sel Noir
Served with a wonderful, hand-carved ice ball — greetings directly from Japan — we actually have one of the most complex and exciting signature Old Fashioneds (well, slightly stretching the definition here) that I have been able to try in recent years. And it's something I've already experienced on my first visit, because the Ronin has been a staple since the bar opened and is the one drink that always remains on the menu, even in summer. Nikka From The Barrel, plus some Pandan-infused Madeira and dry Oloroso, as well as a champagne + lapsang souchong syrup and some black salt.
Not for beginners, as it is brilliantly complex and relatively powerful even with the wines. A distinctly malty start, followed by the dried fruits of Madeira, light nuts, dry champagne notes, but also the pandan popcorn sweetness, then a hint of salt and smoke in the last quarter. You can't pack more flavors into a drink, and it's a real art that it doesn't become too chaotic, but is still brought together in exactly the right place.
Paris now boasts a huge bar community, from bar-restaurant concepts to speakeasies and the trendiest hotel bars, a good 25–30 bars for the nerdy barfly, just to include the interesting pre-sorted ones. And yet, for over a decade now, Sherry Butt has always managed to be one of the very first names in the city when I'm asked for tips for the Paris trips of my friends. The relaxed style and atmosphere, the level of craftsmanship behind the drinks, but also the choice to use as many different spirits as possible, makes it a bar that simply has something for everyone in terms of taste. It also simply offers a good time, you can't ask for more, right?
