#45 | Ba Nomu, Hamburg, Germany


Last Visit: Summer 2024

How does one draw a line from a distinctly and authentically Arab restaurant with bar in Cologne to a modern Asian inspired bar in Hamburg? Good question and one that could only be answered by the mind behind today's venue, Ba Nomu, the first one we will cover as part of our trip to Hamburg.

The recently relocated Al Salam in Cologne was where we first met Dustin and where he already left an impression on us with his eye and taste for using ingredients from different parts of the world in flavorful cocktails. In the case of Al Salam that was for example tea or culinary elements of the Arabic cuisine. Of course, we watched Dustin move on to bigger and better things, always feeling a bit melancholic though, that our home Cologne had lost that kind of creativity. The inspirations he takes are not coincidental, his experiences and that of the people behind Ba Nomu are vast, from starting out behind the bars of hotels, getting a scholarship from Jägermeister and bartending on cruise ships.

As soon as Ba Nomu was announced we were eager to see in which direction the flavors would go, and with a new focus on Asia as a general (but by no means only) region the potential for a truly amazing addition to the bar scene in the north of Germany was undeniable. It is the latest project in a line of family run locations, bringing together Dustin's own Northern German background and his wives Vietnamese heritage to Hamburg.

Many times in between our long overdue visit to Hamburg, we had the chance to try some signatures, as well as cocktails that were specifically created for guest shifts. Fully understanding that these can't and won't show the true character of any bar, especially when it comes to presentation, which was the case with the 'Those Rainy Days' for example.

As you can see in the well-lit photos of our visit, Ba Nomu presents itself in the modern vibe of a ‘living room’, a lot of lighter wood and some industrial elements. The bar and especially the counter is something I immediately noticed, as I am a fan of wide counters where eating and drinking has enough space. The ‘Izakaya’ part comes in the form of straightforward classics of Asian cuisine, such as Bao or Gyoza, of which we tried the absolutely on point Bao, that was matching the drinks.

The menu balances playfulness with functional design, leaving the color elements to the illustrations for each drink. A lot of cocktails to choose from, most of them 100 % signatures, which deserves credit. The addition of tap cocktails, which we haven't tried though, makes busier shifts potentially easier and as many other places like Dstrct Art have proven, can be just as exciting.

Corn Porn

| Singleton of Dufftown 12yo
| P.X. Sherry
| Disaronno
| Roasted Corn
| Pandan
| Lime
| Columbian Coffee
| Salted Caramel

An exciting and rather ingredient rich milk punch. The roasted corn comes in the form of a roasted Korean corn tea (!), all the ingredients are clarified at the end with caramelized milk and then again cold macerated for 2 hours with Colombian coffee beans. Can you taste every single ingredient? Maybe not. This is more of a work of art in blending similar notes into an elegant sipper. Silky smooth, the lime is really just a hint of freshness after the clarification with milk. The focus is on the fine nutty notes of pandan and the roasted corn tea. Subtle, matching, sweet malted barley from the whisky and then a fine hint of coffee flavor in the finish. A smooth operator at a really high level.

/rds

Twelve Chambers Of Harlem

| Rye Whiskey
| Homemade Fig-Pear-Cocoa-Elderflower Liqueur

A modern, boozy twist on a Manhattan, with some beautiful notes of raisins that leans into ideas of Manhattans done with white Vermouth and fresher Bourbon or Whisky. The heaviness of the drink gives it the necessary strength to transport a lot of that complexity between woods and berries. The elderflower is what can remind people of different vermouths, while the cocoa adds to the heartiness of the Rye. I would consider this a cocktail for experienced guests, but maybe it is also exactly the kind of new direction that can get people interested in the idea of a Manhattan.

/jf

Those Rainy Days

| Whisky Infused With Apricot Pits
| Disaronno Sous Vide With Pineapple
| Lime
| Milk Stout Reduction
| Nomu Bitter Blend
| Cremant

This is what a modern Champagne cocktail, or let’s say a sparkling cocktail, should be like in my opinion. Interesting, contrasting, if you want old-school matching flavors and just florals or creaminess or citrus, then there are plenty of other options. It starts off with a beautiful umami wave, then gets more fizzy until the pits and dry Cremant notes appear. This one actually reminded me, at least in terms of similarities, of the Black Velvet twist we did very early on, with a Guinness reduction topped off with Cava sparkling wine. Here of course the balance and the transition between those elements is much more on point.

/jf

Misohi

| Japanese Whisky
| Shiso
| Hikari Miso
| Maple
| Brown Butter
| Soy Sauce

One of the definite highlights of the whole Hamburg trip, including all 8 bars. At the same time, it's of course the one drink most clearly pointing toward that Asian and even more especially Japanese focus of Dustin's bar concept. You got Japanese whisky, shiso, miso and soy sauce as "indicators of intent" and the result was voluminous, savory, full of umami and at the same time wonderfully balanced. Playing with malty notes from the whisky, a lot of nutty notes and that most elegant bitterness from shiso and miso, as well as maple syrup and the kind of umami from the soy sauce almost everybody knows. At the same time, you never really thought about actual soy sauce being in there, only knowing it beforehand gives you an idea where it hides in the drink. And that is perfect, since most drinks with soy sauce I had up to this point were always overloaded and gave you that weird feeling in your head of "That should be a meal, weird", which wasn't the case at any point here. Simply an amazing signature cocktail, that also didn't lose anything from the slight dilution of the quality ice cube.

/rds

Overall one of the best bar visits we had in Hamburg and one that shows again how difficult it can be to accurately represent your own signatures outside your own bar. It is definitely worth travelling to Hamburg to see modern, international drinks, with just the right edge to it, enhanced by great Asian bar snacks. Maybe not the most exotic spirits collection, but for sure one that always offers something new, especially in combination with the exotic, non-alcoholic ingredients. We are happy to see that so talented people have found a place to showcase their taste and craft.

/jf


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#44 | Lovis Bar, Berlin, Germany