#53 | El Koktel, Warsaw, Poland
Last Visit: Fall 2024
While changes in the bar scene of Poland’s capital are happening rapidly, the ‘old guard’ and the pioneers of Mixology in the country are standing their ground. So many of the newly opened clubs and restaurants are focusing on ‘premium’ drinking and bottle service first these days, so I had hoped that places like El Koktel and The Roots would counter that with more classic craft.
Copyright: El Koktel
I had been at both many years ago, back when these were among the only serious bars in town, so during a recent trip going back for an updated impression and a long overdue article we will visit El Koktel. The last location I remember was a small basement bar. With their current location in a storefront, central Warsaw building, they retain the same charm and slight quirkiness. A bit of UK bars in the 2000s, a tad of speakeasy, that is also apparent in their choice of logo and font.
Since the very first visit (with a creative Sake-Martini twist) I twice had the opportunity to taste signatures created for competitions or guest shifts from the El Koktel team (for example a smoky Last Word). Both times I was impressed by the high level of craft and experience that their bartenders brought to the (bar) table.
Just by reading the diverse menu, the impression of a bar that wants to do everything is apparent. Herein lies the biggest weakness as well and where El Koktel falls behind in comparison to bars in other cities in Poland or the world as well.
Red Carpet
| Chopin Rye Vodka
| Campari
| Ice Cider
| Palomino Fino Sherry
| Lemon
| Parsley
The drink welcomes you with a sweet lemony nose, but it's a Negroni (as per the bartenders’ description when he served it) it doesn't work via scent, or at least not pure lemon like a sour. It is a great citrusy and floral twist with hints in the way of popular Negroni twists with Malfi Gin for example. The sherry and cider appear towards the back and as it warms up, leaving a bit of a cough drop note that one has to like. Parsley comes forward with intensity, giving it an almost too culinary note and overall making the cocktail a little more overcomplicated than necessary. Ice cider is an absolutely exciting category in which Poland can be world-class with its fantastic fruits. Here, however, this art is somewhat lost.
BDSM
| Benriach 10
| Nutmeg
| Artichoke
| Vanilla
| Cucielo Red Vermouth
| Amaro
The nose is full of nutmeg, Christmas in a glass, depth that promises more and a hint of wood smoke. Somewhere between an Old Fashioned and a Manhattan, it starts very dry but lacks the depth of a great, on point Old Fashioned and/or Manhattan. Especially one that might be built around a decent Scotch like Benriach in this case. A lot of winter spices with a short finish that also makes one wonder of where the artichoke, vanilla and amaro are supposed to come in as all these aromas blend together in the first taste impression.
The bar team, who I have seen and met during many occasions outside their own bar, do take their craft seriously, but the bar has its own easy-going vibe. It is not the place where the service will wow you, but rather, where the emphasis is on feeling at ease. It has to be said that El Koktel at this point is somewhat of an institution, a stop there almost mandatory on any guest shift tour of the country and their staff regularly leading workshops at every bar convention.
As such, it has its place, and it has found it in a perfect location if you ask me. But I wouldn't expect that to mean amazing drinks, rather the solid foundation upon which so much of what is now the leading level of bars in Poland is build at other locations.
/jf
Parts of the menu during our visit (click for original size):
